SEED: Vitamin B

The SEED Principle – Vitamin B

Vitamin B3 has been used for many years for wound treatment. In the last decade Niacinamide has been recognized for a wide range of cosmeceutical benefits such as:

Dryness
Redness
Pigmentation
Acne
Fine lines
Skin immunity

This wide range of positive effects on skin make Vitamin B3 the essential skin ‘multi-tasker’.

Niacinamide is also known as Vitamin B3 and nicotinamide. B3 is vital to cell metabolism as it acts as a precursor to production of skin compounds such as collagen, involucrin, filaggrin and keratin.

So, how does this essential ingredient adhere to my SEED RULE?

1. Stablity

Niacinamide is highly stable and does not degrade in the presence of heat, light or oxygen.

2. Effectiveness

The benefits of B3 are diverse and include the following effects on human skin

a) Improved barrier function and reduces irritation and redness

B3 reduces water loss (trans-epidermal water loss/TEWL) through the outer layer of the skin and therefore improves the barrier function of the skin. Skin treated with Niacinamide is more hydrated and less prone to redness and damage from environmental irritants. This is due to the fact that B3 increases the production of skin lipids such as ceramides as well as skin barrier proteins such as keratin, involucrin and filaggrin.

b) Reduced hyperpigmentation

Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanin (dark pigment) from the cells that produce melanin (the melanocyte) to the skin cells in the outer layer (keratinocyte). Because transfer is inhibited, it signals the melanocyte to stop producing melanin to reduce skin pigmentation.

c) Reduced yellowing of skin

Ageing skin often exhibits a shallow complexion. This is due to the sugar in our skin, linking to skin protein. This process is called ‘Glycation ageing’ and results in a shallow (yellow-brown) tone to skin. Glycation also stiffens collagen and increases the production of wrinkles.

d) Reduction of wrinkles

Topical Niacinamide reduces the appearance of wrinkles by increasing collagen production and reducing excess GAG (glycosaminoglycan) compounds in the deeper skin dermis. Interestingly excess GAGs on Shar Pei dogs results in the wrinkled appearance of their skin.

e) Boosting of the natural immunity of the skin

Vitamin B3 prevents immunosuppression caused by UV light by boosting the skin’s natural immune response. There has been recent discussion on incorporating B3 in chemotherapy for skin cancer treatment.

f) Reduces inflammation

Niacinamide is effective in reducing the inflammatory response in the skin. Since all skin conditions are based on inflammation, B3 can be used to treat virtually all skin conditions.

g) Oil regulation

Dr Drealos MD discovered that topical Niacinamide reduced excess sebum production in acne and the added reduction in inflammation by B3 further help acne sufferers control their condition.

3. Elegant

Niacinamide is tolerated by most individuals due to the following characteristics:

Low irritation and anti-inflammatory benefits
High solubility
Compatible and non-reactive with many other cosmeceutical ingredients (except acids)
Colourless
Odorless

4. Delivery